The French Farland – Loch Fyne

We had imagined our trip to Scotland to be one of movement. Of travelling along lonely roads between the glens. Of walking trails along the loch shore or up into the hills. Of trains across the moor and ferries to the islands. And although all of those things remained on the agenda, the strongest memory… Continue reading The French Farland – Loch Fyne

Walking the Perlenbachtal – Monschau

From the car park on the edge of town, with the Roer river racing by beside us, the only way was up. Monschau is a mediaeval German town close to the Belgian border, famous for its mustard, its half-timbered houses and for being a centre of the cloth industry back in the day. We wanted… Continue reading Walking the Perlenbachtal – Monschau

Tracks and traces along the lake shore – Storsjön Nature Reserve

The sign guided us off a road south of the town of Borås and along a track between tall fir trees until we reached a dusty car park and a collection of wooden huts, all of which seemed to be shuttered and closed. A map attached to one of them showed the outline of a… Continue reading Tracks and traces along the lake shore – Storsjön Nature Reserve

A dusty red road through the hills – Rodalquilar

The township of Rodalquilar, in the Cabo de Gata Natural Park, was born of a gold rush. When the mines were opened there was a belief that the volcanic landscape within which the town was built would give up great riches. They were linked by wide, dusty roads that were cut through the low mountains,… Continue reading A dusty red road through the hills – Rodalquilar

The hidden valley – Furnas

From the lookout point it was possible to take in the whole of the Furnas Valley, hidden away in the interior of the island and only visible once we were right upon it. We could see the rim of the volcanic crater, and the cones shaped by previous eruptions. We looked down on the blue… Continue reading The hidden valley – Furnas

Between the gates, before the storm – Heiterwanger See

Ahead of us, the mountains rose up out of the Bavarian countryside to meet the dark clouds that had gathered just above the peaks. That morning in Augsburg, the weather had been muggy. Yesterday’s clear skies and sunshine had given way to greyness; the air oppressive and close. There was a storm coming, and when… Continue reading Between the gates, before the storm – Heiterwanger See

A night on the Brocken

When the last train of the afternoon eased its way out from the summit station, the top of the Brocken was transformed. Earlier, hundreds of people had mingled among the collection of buildings that occupy the plateau of northern Germany’s highest mountain. They visited the museum in an old Cold War listening station, or queued… Continue reading A night on the Brocken

Building a dam – Mirwart

Up in the village, the sun beat down relentlessly. Occupying a spot on the crest of a hill, the view stretched out for miles in all directions, and everywhere we looked were trees. The forests filled every hillside and fold in the land, valleys formed between ancient mountains by rivers and streams. The roads that… Continue reading Building a dam – Mirwart

Along the Bodden – Wustrow

At the harbour, holidaymakers queued for their fish rolls and drank beer in the mid-afternoon sunshine, the air full of woodsmoke and the smell of mackerel and eel, and the sound of heavy canvas sails flapping in the breeze. There are many harbours in the former fishing villages of Fischland-Darß-Zingst, places that have long been… Continue reading Along the Bodden – Wustrow

Across the headland – Rhoscolyn

We walked out from the house, following the track that has long been worn into the grass that leads from the back gate of the bottom field towards the coast. There, it met the official hiking trail that circles the island, which we would follow around and across the headland, between the heather and the… Continue reading Across the headland – Rhoscolyn