Rolling country – the Lüneburg Heath by bike

From the top of the Wilseder Berg, the highest point of the Lüneburg Heath (Lüneburger Heide), we looked out across the rolling landscape that has long been a draw to visitors of northern Germany that has long been an attraction for visitors – and especially nature lovers. Unfortunately it was too early in the summer… Continue reading Rolling country – the Lüneburg Heath by bike

Walking in Autumn – Berlin & Brandenburg

The new year begins as the leaves begin to turn, and those last warm summer evenings switch to an autumn chill, the smell of wood stoves in the village or small bonfires in the allotments of the city. We call it a new year because autumn is a time of beginnings as well as the… Continue reading Walking in Autumn – Berlin & Brandenburg

Riding the rails – the Erzbahntrasse, Bochum

We had arrived in Bochum to visit friends, approaching this city in the industrial heartland of Germany known as the Ruhrgebiet in torrential summer rain. Somehow it fit the city that we explored that afternoon on foot – a no-nonsense, postwar urban landscape similar to many of the towns that were heavily bombed during World… Continue reading Riding the rails – the Erzbahntrasse, Bochum

Above the treetops – the Beelitz Sanatorium

The metal staircase starts at the bottom of the tower, and with each step we were climbing ever closer to the top of the trees. We were in the grounds of the old Beelitz Heilstätten, a sanatorium set among the pine forests south of Berlin. Looking up we could see the walkway stretching out from… Continue reading Above the treetops – the Beelitz Sanatorium

A place like no other – the Schrammsteine of Saxon Switzerland

It was Friday evening when we caught the train from Berlin’s Hauptbahnhof. Two dads, two daughters, heading south beyond Dresden and towards the Czech border, climbing down from the train in darkness on the banks of the Elbe. Across the river from the station, the lights of Bad Schandau shone against the dark hills that… Continue reading A place like no other – the Schrammsteine of Saxon Switzerland

Our lake – Tegel, Berlin

From the street, which runs in a straight line through the Jungfernheide forest in the north of Berlin, circling around the old Tegel airfield, it is a short walk through the trees to the lake. The path, which follows the water’s edge from the Greenwich Promenade south towards Saatwinkel and Spandau, passes by sailing and… Continue reading Our lake – Tegel, Berlin

Out of Sight – Hiddensee

The ferry had been sailing for more than an hour before the island came into sight. Ever since we’d left the harbour at Stralsund we’d been looking out for it. We knew it was there, across the straits and between the headlands of Rügen island on one side and the mainland of Germany on the… Continue reading Out of Sight – Hiddensee

Escape to the seaside – Warnemünde

It was a moment last summer, when the calendar clicked over to 20 months since our last trip to the sea, that we finally snapped. We had stood on the Baltic shore in the December before the pandemic struck, and for more than fifteen years before that we had managed to make it north at… Continue reading Escape to the seaside – Warnemünde

Walking the Perlenbachtal – Monschau

From the car park on the edge of town, with the Roer river racing by beside us, the only way was up. Monschau is a mediaeval German town close to the Belgian border, famous for its mustard, its half-timbered houses and for being a centre of the cloth industry back in the day. We wanted… Continue reading Walking the Perlenbachtal – Monschau

Coconat – A workation retreat

As we sit down to write this piece, our friends at Coconat in the small hamlet of Klein Glien are about to celebrate their 5th birthday. And it is indeed five years since we first pulled up outside the old manor house in Brandenburg, not long after they had opened.  At the time, Paul was… Continue reading Coconat – A workation retreat