The stories in the earth – Walking the Mols Bjerge

The final stretch of Denmark’s longest mediaeval road stretched out along a causeway, the polished stones leading to what had once been an island and home today to the ruins of Kalø Castle. It had been built some seven centuries ago, an impenetrable fortress to protect a King not necessarily from the threat that might… Continue reading The stories in the earth – Walking the Mols Bjerge

The Forgotten Giants – Copenhagen

All we had was a map, hand-drawn and uploaded onto an artist’s website. It showed the edges of Copenhagen, curled around Køge Bay, and the western neighbourhoods of Rødovre, Hvidovre, Vallensbæk, Ishøj, Albertslund and Høje Taastrup. We were in Ishøj, and had just erected our tent between two campervans, in sight of the striking ARKEN… Continue reading The Forgotten Giants – Copenhagen

The French Farland – Loch Fyne

We had imagined our trip to Scotland to be one of movement. Of travelling along lonely roads between the glens. Of walking trails along the loch shore or up into the hills. Of trains across the moor and ferries to the islands. And although all of those things remained on the agenda, the strongest memory… Continue reading The French Farland – Loch Fyne

Along the Bodden – Wustrow

At the harbour, holidaymakers queued for their fish rolls and drank beer in the mid-afternoon sunshine, the air full of woodsmoke and the smell of mackerel and eel, and the sound of heavy canvas sails flapping in the breeze. There are many harbours in the former fishing villages of Fischland-Darß-Zingst, places that have long been… Continue reading Along the Bodden – Wustrow

Across the headland – Rhoscolyn

We walked out from the house, following the track that has long been worn into the grass that leads from the back gate of the bottom field towards the coast. There, it met the official hiking trail that circles the island, which we would follow around and across the headland, between the heather and the… Continue reading Across the headland – Rhoscolyn