The Forgotten Giants – Copenhagen

All we had was a map, hand-drawn and uploaded onto an artist’s website. It showed the edges of Copenhagen, curled around Køge Bay, and the western neighbourhoods of Rødovre, Hvidovre, Vallensbæk, Ishøj, Albertslund and Høje Taastrup. We were in Ishøj, and had just erected our tent between two campervans, in sight of the striking ARKEN… Continue reading The Forgotten Giants – Copenhagen

Germany’s 9-Euro Ticket and Outdoor Adventures

If you live in Germany or are planning a trip to our home country this summer, you can take advantage of this special monthly pass that has been introduced by the government to encourage public transport use and ease the impact of inflation and the rise in energy prices. For June, July, and August you… Continue reading Germany’s 9-Euro Ticket and Outdoor Adventures

The French Farland – Loch Fyne

We had imagined our trip to Scotland to be one of movement. Of travelling along lonely roads between the glens. Of walking trails along the loch shore or up into the hills. Of trains across the moor and ferries to the islands. And although all of those things remained on the agenda, the strongest memory… Continue reading The French Farland – Loch Fyne

Walking the Perlenbachtal – Monschau

From the car park on the edge of town, with the Roer river racing by beside us, the only way was up. Monschau is a mediaeval German town close to the Belgian border, famous for its mustard, its half-timbered houses and for being a centre of the cloth industry back in the day. We wanted… Continue reading Walking the Perlenbachtal – Monschau

Coconat – A workation retreat

As we sit down to write this piece, our friends at Coconat in the small hamlet of Klein Glien are about to celebrate their 5th birthday. And it is indeed five years since we first pulled up outside the old manor house in Brandenburg, not long after they had opened.  At the time, Paul was… Continue reading Coconat – A workation retreat

Tracks and traces along the lake shore – Storsjön Nature Reserve

The sign guided us off a road south of the town of Borås and along a track between tall fir trees until we reached a dusty car park and a collection of wooden huts, all of which seemed to be shuttered and closed. A map attached to one of them showed the outline of a… Continue reading Tracks and traces along the lake shore – Storsjön Nature Reserve

A dusty red road through the hills – Rodalquilar

The township of Rodalquilar, in the Cabo de Gata Natural Park, was born of a gold rush. When the mines were opened there was a belief that the volcanic landscape within which the town was built would give up great riches. They were linked by wide, dusty roads that were cut through the low mountains,… Continue reading A dusty red road through the hills – Rodalquilar

Crossing the Vršič Pass

Just outside Kranjska Gora we stopped by a lake and the statue of Zlatorog – the golden horned ibex that was said to stalk the slopes of Triglav, Slovenia’s highest mountain. We followed his gaze up into the hills, where low clouds obscured all but the lowest peaks. Was it worth continuing? We stood with… Continue reading Crossing the Vršič Pass

Between the gates, before the storm – Heiterwanger See

Ahead of us, the mountains rose up out of the Bavarian countryside to meet the dark clouds that had gathered just above the peaks. That morning in Augsburg, the weather had been muggy. Yesterday’s clear skies and sunshine had given way to greyness; the air oppressive and close. There was a storm coming, and when… Continue reading Between the gates, before the storm – Heiterwanger See

A night on the Brocken

When the last train of the afternoon eased its way out from the summit station, the top of the Brocken was transformed. Earlier, hundreds of people had mingled among the collection of buildings that occupy the plateau of northern Germany’s highest mountain. They visited the museum in an old Cold War listening station, or queued… Continue reading A night on the Brocken